Mar 18 2008

Tubing_2

If you were beginning a day-trek through the Belizean Rainforest and allowed to carry only one object, the inclusion of an inner tube would most likely fall pretty low on your list. However, wandering through the sun-strewn lush, green terrain, I happily clutch my inner tube at my side, along with my fellow Concierge Travel guests as today’s adventure is a Belize tourist favorite: Cave-Tubing. Secure with half of the necessary items to complete our mission, we are steadfastly on the hunt for the Cave.

“Make sure you stay together,” our guide warns, without desired effect. Then, he adds pointedly, “Remember, you are passing through protected Jaguar reserve; that’s why it’s called Jaguar Paw Park”. It is the first moment I regret only holding an inner tube in my hands, as my glance warily moves upwards and my fellow hikers fall into linear formation. A few steps along, I devise what I think is an ingenious safety plan: throw the inner tube like a huge chocolate donut, and scream “buffet’s open!" It seems to be working on the cruise ship. The jaguar is sure to go for that one!

For greater reassurance, I sidle up to Keith, a funny local from Belize City and our trusty Cave-Tubing.com Guide, and coolly ask, “Do you really get cats in here?” He tells me "occasionally, but normally they stay away from areas people pass through." And the people are certainly passing through today.

A large, brotherly group of over 120 Concierge guests have ventured off the RSVP Caribbean Cruise in Belize City. The current trek through the Nohoch Che'en Caves Branch Archaeological Reserve is a bit more rustic than RSVP’s trademark fabulous entertainment- themed parties. But with the Houston-based Concierge Travel leading today’s journey, it’s certainly a fantastic opportunity to spend a truly unique day, with a globally diverse group full of adventurous spirit.

After heading deeper into the Rainforest, like Survivor contestants heading to Council, we emerge into the first opening of the Sibun rivers western tributary Caves Branch. The azure river is flanked by steep limestone vine-covered cliffs, and a very anxious collection of virgin tubers. Much like those Survivor participants, one must complete a challenge to begin today’s adventure. Scaling the steep cliff surrounding the water, all signs of dignity and charm are lost as you shimmy down a rope with a Hail Mary-inspired, derrière-first planting into the tube.

The water’s cool and refreshing after the hike, but the humility somewhat colder. Following a fitting with a light helmet, and now resembling floating Esther Williams coal miners, we embark. Our guide tells us this part of the Sibun flows through karstic topography, and is one of the most beautiful and endangered lands. The incredibly lush scenery and rich soil is a coveted developer prize. Fortunately, the presence of the protected Jaguar ensures safety from building and continued use for eco-tourism.

The Caves Branch Cave has been a human attraction for more than 1700 years. Archeological studies have shown the Ancient Mayans to have utilized this site as an opportunity to connect with the powerful deities that existed in the mysterious, dark caverns. From 300 to 900 A.D., local Mayans performed ritual sacrifices to appease the underworld gods of rain and agricultural fertility.

Passing through the first entrance, the incredible mystical power these underground worlds present is palpable. The tubers pass through the mosque-like entrance, with all the excitement and spookiness usually reserved for an amusement park haunted mansion. But as our guides are quick to point out, this is no backdrop. “Everything you see here is real,” they insist. I look back to see the waning glow of light at the distant entrance and settle into my tube, drifting into the Mayan underworld of Xibalba.

The air has a slight chill. But any ghostly fears of entering into the world of the undead passes, for the caves are vibrant with life-forces that exist in the shadows. And I realize that I have simply become just one more small light in an incredibly mystifying land. Squeaking, chirping fruit bats pass overhead, causing me to recall the guides' admonition, “To keep your mouth closed when looking up.” Yet the bats seem to be welcoming us, with tune as friendly as a Nightingale. Deeper caverns of massive beige, green and purple stacked stalagmites present themselves in a stunning display. One does have to remember that this is all real - for the physical perfection and prehistoric beauty is breathtaking. More coves of shadowy, limestone formations and hanging stalactites float past - like some kind of Indiana Jones’ dream - creating a deeply mysterious presentation of a land before time. All the while, powerful spirits dart and skulk in the dimness, peaking out at the strangers drifting by like buoyant fireflies.

Into the final stretch and grandest moment yet, the cave opens to a multilayered cove, with ceilings 50 feet high, feeding into the great cavern. We have arrived at the epicenter of the caves! A small cavity to the northwest corner of the tunnel lets in diffused sun beams which flicker on the abundant greens vines. It’s a breathtaking feeling; and for this adventurer an opportunity to break away from the chatty, festive group. Lightly spinning like in an H.G. Wells time machine, I turn off my light and gaze upon the prehistoric ceiling. I savor this blissful moment -- being so far away from the outside world and connecting with another time and place. This is what great vacations are all about. Visions of cavemen appear in the underground sanctuary, building a small fire on a dry patch to ensure survival for one more night. Or humble Mayans, performing grotesque sacrifices in order to appease volatile deities. Sometimes an inner tube and a bit of cashew wine is all one needs to truly understand how far man has come.

Returning to the ship, relaxed and exhausted, it becomes clear that the Lido Deck buffet needs to be my first stop. Like the cavemen returning to their food source, I thought of those ancestors of ours, out there fighting with the jaguar. I have to laugh to myself, as I go for seconds at the ice cream sundae bar. I do, however, pass on the chocolate donuts.

Who says modern living is easy?

Special thanks to Gary John Buce for the wonderful photo and www.ConciergeTravel.cc