Apr 27 2008

It is hard to imagine traveling from Turkey Hollow to see other animals/ mammals since my own backyard contains so much to behold. Maybe the wilds of Africa can give a temptation call but few other places offer the consistently entertaining wildlife antics such as those found in Turkey Hollow. However, this weekend I experienced one of my great adventures with mammals as I watched the Whales of Provincetown, Massachusetts. Img_4314

Driving the seven hours out of the Catskills and toward the Atlantic was a great little road trip with perfect weather and the real anticipation of visiting with old friends and hopefully making new ones. With the fear of losing my 'gay credentials', I have to admit that I have never been to the delightful seaside hamlet of Provincetown. What a joy it was this weekend to discover it.

The quaint idyllic village has long been a haven for artists and authors. Such greats as Tennessee Williams, Norman Mailer, Michael Cunningham, Tony Kushner, Lillian Hellman, Eugene O'Neill and Dashiell Hammett have graced its narrow streets. As I rode into town with Steven Guy, I couldn't help but wonder about all the great conversations and arguments that occurred around oaken tables in the cafes along Commercial Street. Perhaps aided by the influence of alcohol or more, their enlightenment was not always at the highest level but the lack of genius was made up by their alcohol-fed passion.

As I gazed over the dunes along the National Seashore, I swear I could see Lillian Hellman and Dashiell Hamment bundled up against the damp sea air discussing heatedly what she should say when called to testify before Congress during the "Red Scare" of the early 1950's. Did they seek comfort in this God created beauty before appearing before the angry, bellowing blowhards who were destroying careers left and left for their own cheap political purposes?

So as a writer who felt humbled being in such a place filled with a great history of artists and writers, little did I know that these legends of literature would soon be overshadowed by the Whales of Provincetown. Heading down to the wharf to board the boat, I expected to see a fluke (tail) or two and maybe - if lucky - a couple of full size Finback Whales. They are the second largest animal/ mammal in the world after the famous Blue Whale. While there had been reports all Spring of record sightings, I had no other adventure of which to compare.

I was in for the experience of a lifetime.

As we sailed by the four grand portraits of elderly ladies on the side of an old pier building, we were barely out of the Provincetown Harbor, when we starting seeing whales. At first, they were away from the boat but there were one or two together and we were beside ourselves! As we pulled just a tad further into the Atlantic, the waters became literally a convention of whales. They were literally everywhere we looked. Suddenly, they were so close to the boat we could see them underwater ready to swim to the surface and put on a show for their admiring fans.

Img_5067 As I leaned over the side of the boat to look deeper into the water, a huge Finback Whale emerged right there and I let out a scream that sent everyone starboard to see this monster of the deep. At one moment over a dozen whales and dozens of Atlantic White Sided Dolphins had surrounded the boat and we only had to look no further than over the railing. Our tour guide threw up her hands and said into the mike, "Ladies and Gentlemen, we are surrounded by whales and dolphins. Take your pick where you want to look." It was simply surreal.

Before long, the whales began to take on real personalities -- especially one showboat named Pepper. Further away from the boat, we could see that she was a true entertainer who was not about to be upstaged by this mere grouping. At first, without getting closer, she over and over again loudly pounded her massive fluke against the water as if demanding we look at her. Of course, being an easy audience, we ignored those effortlessly gliding around and focused all our attention at Pepper. The boat headed to her as she continued to seduce us with her antics. Then we were in just the perfect position as, on cue, she rolled on her side and raised a monster fin into the air and waved to us. Just to be sure no one missed this act, she repeated it again and again. Pepper knew she would have the most photographs and be remembered long after the day had ended.

All in all, we saw over forty individual whales in all forms and groupings. As we landed, the Captain cautioned us not to expect such an experience again. But if I lived close to Provincetown, I would be down here the next couple of weeks and see the show while it lasts.

Photographs taken by Steven Guy

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